May 2025: Case Power Shuttles Rebuilt with OEM BorgWarner Parts in stock NOW!
Category: Blog
December 2024: Case Power Shuttle Transmissions Rebuilt and Ready to Go!
December 2024: Hydraulic Cylinders in Stock!
December 2024: Rebuilt Hydraulic Pumps in Stock!
December 2024: Rebuilt Injection Pumps In Stock!
DECEMBER: LOOKING TO SELL?
GSES NOVEMBER 2024
GSES September 2023 Newsletter
GSES September 2023 Newsletter
GSES September 2023 Newsletter
The kids are back to school, Labor Day is behind us, and hopefully, the hot, dry summer will soon be a distant memory (probably not too soon, here in south Louisiana…). There’s still plenty of work to be done before Winter, and Gulf South Equipment Sales has the parts you need to keep your machines running and working. Take a look at what we’ve been up to in August, and what we’re looking forward to.
August Brought Us TONS of Fresh Salvage!
We brought six machines in for parts last month, and it’s no surprise that four of them are our specialty: Ford/New Holland:
– THREE Ford 4630 Tractors, one with a complete front end loader attachment
– Ford 555D 2wd Backhoe
– Case 580 Super L Series 2 2wd Backhoe
– Deere 35D Mini Excavator
Call Our Staff Before these Fast-Moving Parts are Gone!
*Click on the Image Above to See Our ENTIRE Salvage Inventory*
Our Bread and Butter is Getting a Face-Lift
As you can tell by our salvage inventory, we specialize in Ford / New Holland parts.
We not only boast the largest Ford / New Holland backhoe salvage yard on the Gulf Coast, we also offer hundreds of rebuilt and new aftermarket parts, including exclusive new backhoe cylinders and rods, hydraulic oil coolers, mufflers, and exhaust pipes, power steering cylinders and more.
We also rebuild hydraulic pumps, cylinders, injection pumps, and cylinder heads for ford tractors and backhoes. Check out our full Ford / New Holland inventory by clicking the image above or below this paragraph.
We are proud of the quality of our salvage, rebuilt, and brand new parts, so we have been busy working behind the scenes to make our parts easier for you to find, order, and have delivered right to your door. Our goal has always been to deliver the highest quality parts at a fair price for our customers, and you can always count on us to do everything in our power to meet and exceed that goal. In addition to that, we want to make your online experience as easy and satisfying as possible. Of course, our talented sales staff is available for you to call or email Monday through Friday from 8:00-5:00 Central time at 1-800-462-8118. Let us know what you think!
Stay Up-to-Date by Following us on Facebook!
Our Monthly Newsletter and E-mail List are both good ways to stay informed about what we’re up to here at GSES, but why wait an entire month, or even 10-12 days between emails? Follow our Facebook page to see new salvage arrivals the day that they arrive, get updates on holiday hours, new parts we’ve added, & more timely information.
Click on the image above to follow our page today!
GSES April 2023 Newsletter
GSES April 2023 Newsletter
We've been Busy Getting Ready so You Can Get Ready to Get Busy!
It seems like just yesterday we were saying farewell to 2022, but as the saying goes “time marches on,” and April is here!
We hope you took our advice and got your machines ready for Spring before it Sprung. Either way, we’re only a click or call away any time you need parts. In fact, we did some Spring Cleaning, added some parts, and brought in some fantastic salvage last month to make sure we’re ready for you.
We Brought in Four Great Salvage Machines Last Month:
- Ford 3000 Tractor with Manual Steering & Gas Engine
- Caterpillar D6R Bulldozer
- Ford 4000 3-Cylinder Tractor
- Case CX160 Excavator
We Offer OEM Carraro 4wd Front Axle Parts!
OEM Parts that You Can Afford for Case and New Holland Backhoes:
- Planetary Gears, Carriers, and Complete Corners
- Axle Shafts, U-Joints, and Assemblies
- King Pins, Needle Bearings, Seals, and Shims
- Bare Axle Housings and Swivel Housings
Even Websites Need the Cobwebs Cleaned Sometimes
We Don’t Want to Bore You with the Details, so Here’s What it Means for You:
- We work with Our Vendors to Offer You Top-Tier Quality Parts at the Lowest Possible Price
- Our 5,000+ Part Inventory Price & Availability is Up to Date
- We’ve Improved Our Search Function to Make Our Parts Easier to Find by Part Number, Machine Make & Model, and Part Names
February 2023 Newsletter (January Recap, Giveaway, Catalog)
February 2023 Newsletter (January Recap)
We hit the ground running on January 2nd, and haven’t looked back (except, of course, for our Year in Salvage, available on the Monthly Newsletter Page). This February, we are bringing in even more salvage, adding dozens of new, rebuilt, and aftermarket parts, and we’re giving away a Louisiana delicacy to one lucky winner for liking and sharing the pinned post on our Facebook page. Get all the Details Below!
Gulf South Equipment Sales 2022 Year In Salvage
Gulf South Equipment Sales 2022 Year in Salvage
We Bought TONS of Tractors, Backhoes, Dozers, Excavators, and More for Parts Last Year. See Just 40 of Those Arrivals Below!
Case International: 424 Tractor, 574 Tractor, 1150D Dozer, 1150E Dozer, 586G-3 Forklift, 865DHP Motor Grader, 580E 4wd Backhoe.
Kubota: M5140, L245, M7040 4wd, L2250 Tractors
Caterpillar 320F Excavator
Ford / New Holland: 3000 Gas, 4000 UK, 5000, 4000, 4000 4 Cylinder, TC30, 3400, 231, 3430, T6020 Tractors. 555E and 555C Backhoes. LX865 Skid Steer.
Long 460 Tractor.
John Deere 770, 950, 870 Tractors. 310C and 310G Backhoes. 650K, 650H, and 650E Dozers
Komatsu D20A-5 Dozer ad PC200LC and PC38 Excavators
Linkbelt 210LX Excavator
Takeuchi TB216 Mini Excavator
Product Tags Gallery
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BOOMS & DIPPERS (25)
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BRAKES & PARTS (100)
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BUCKETS & LINKAGE (653)
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CAB GLASS (93)
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COOLING SYSTEM (358)
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CYLINDERS & PARTS (436)
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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (125)
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ENGINE COMPONENTS (707)
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FINAL DRIVE COMPONENTS (60)
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FRONT AXLE (171)
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FUEL SYSTEM (103)
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HYDRAULIC PUMP (235)
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POWER STEERING CYLINDERS (43)
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STEERING (345)
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TRANSMISSION (142)
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UNDERCARRIAGE (310)
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BOOMS & DIPPERS (25)
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BRAKES & PARTS (100)
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BUCKETS & LINKAGE (653)
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CAB GLASS (93)
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COOLING SYSTEM (358)
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CYLINDERS & PARTS (436)
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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (125)
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ENGINE COMPONENTS (707)
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FINAL DRIVE COMPONENTS (60)
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FRONT AXLE (171)
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FUEL SYSTEM (103)
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HYDRAULIC PUMP (235)
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POWER STEERING CYLINDERS (43)
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STEERING (345)
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TRANSMISSION (142)
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UNDERCARRIAGE (310)
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BOOMS & DIPPERS (25)
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BRAKES & PARTS (100)
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BUCKETS & LINKAGE (653)
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CAB GLASS (93)
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COOLING SYSTEM (358)
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CYLINDERS & PARTS (436)
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ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (125)
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ENGINE COMPONENTS (707)
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FINAL DRIVE COMPONENTS (60)
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FRONT AXLE (171)
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FUEL SYSTEM (103)
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HYDRAULIC PUMP (235)
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POWER STEERING CYLINDERS (43)
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STEERING (345)
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TRANSMISSION (142)
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UNDERCARRIAGE (310)
GSES Backhoe 101
WELCOME TO:
G.S.E.S. BACKHOE 101
Backhoe Cylinders and Working Equipment
Backhoe Hydraulic Cylinders:
There are many names for each cylinder on a backhoe, but we’re going to give you the terms that we use, so there is no confusion when you are researching or buying parts. Each cylinder is named for the part that it manipulates. This is important to note, because the Dipper Cylinder sits upon the Boom and the Bucket Cylinder sits on the Dipper, so it can get confusing when we’re not on the same page, and mistakes cost time and money.
- Backhoe Bucket Cylinder (Sometimes Called the Bucket Curl Cylinder) Manipulates the Backhoe Bucket (A). Even though the majority of the cylinder is pinned to the dipper, it is named for the bucket that curls toward the machine when the ram is extended.
- Dipper Cylinder (Also Arm or Stick Cylinder) Manipulates the Dipper Stick (B) Again, most of the cylinder rides along the Boom, but the rod end is pinned to the Dipper and manipulates it.
- Boom Cylinder. Manipulates the main boom (C)
- Stabilizer Cylinder (Also Outrigger Cylinder). Manipulates the Stabilizer or Outrigger Arm. Side-Specific on some makes.
- Swing Cylinders. Manipulates the Swing Tower, or Swing Frame (D) Side-Specific on some makes.
- Loader Lift Cylinders. Raise and lower the Loader Frame (E). Side-Specific on a few makes.
- Loader Tilt Cylinder (or Loader Bucket Cylinder). Case and Ford usually have one on each side. Cat, Komatsu, and most Deere models just have one in the center. Models with two cylinders are often side-specific.
- Clam-shell (or 4-in-1 Bucket) Cylinder. *Not Pictured* Some backhoes have a loader bucket that opens and closes. If this model was equipped with a “4-in-1 Loader Bucket” the cylinders would be pinned to the back of the Loader Bucket (F)
Backhoe Working Parts
The “Working Parts” on a Backhoe Consist of the Buckets, Arms and the Frames that They are Attached to.
I Want to be Clear About this Section, Because if Our Terminology is Mixed up on these Working Parts Mistakes Cost Even More Money and Time, Because all of these Parts Ship VIA Freight!
A. Backhoe Bucket: Pretty Self Explanatory. It Pins up to the Backhoe Links and Dipper Arm (B).
B. Dipper (Sometimes Called the Arm. NOT a Boom) Pins Up to the Backhoe Links, Bucket (A), and Boom (C).
C. Boom (NOT an “Arm, Stick, or Dipper) Pins to the Dipper (B) on one end and the Swing Frame (D) on the Other.
D. Swing Frame (Also Swing Tower). Pins to the Main Frame of the Machine. The Boom (C) is Pinned to it, and the Swing Cylinders (5) Move the Swing Frame Left and Right.
E. Loader Lift Frame (or Lift Arms). Pin to the Main Frame of the Machine, and the Loader Bucket (F)
F. Loader Bucket. Again, this one is Easy. It Pins to the Loader Lift Frame (E)
September 2022 Newsletter
September 2022 Newsletter
August Was NOT Cool. September Takes Us Back to School!
August 2022 has Come and Gone. Some of Our Kids have Headed Back to School, and Some Will be there Soon. In this September 2022 Edition of Our Newsletter, We are Introducing Our F.A.A.Q.: an Online Database to Help You Along the Journey that is New and Used Tractor and Heavy Equipment Parts. We are also Unveiling Our New Look Salvage Equipment Page that You Can Navigate More Easily. See all the Details Below!
We Really DO Carry ALL Makes and Models. We have More Machines Coming in September, but in August We’ve Added a Komatsu PC200LC-7 Excavator, A Ford 3400 Industrial Tractor with a Hydraulic Blade, and a John Deere 650H Dozer. The Excavator Cylinders Look Fantastic. The Blade on the Ford, and the Deere Final Drives Won’t Last Long! Call Our Sales Staff and Get the Parts You Need Today! 1-800-462-8118
Our Brand New F.A.A.Q. is LIVE! It is Our Version of a Standard FAQ (Frequently asked questions). We Have a Few Articles Published With Place Holders for the Topics in Progress. We Even Invite YOU to Offer Suggestions for Future Articles that You Can Access 24/7/365. Click The Link Below the Image to Get Started!
Our Salvage Equipment Page has a New Look, too. The Latest Arrivals Will be on the Top of the Page, and You are now able to Navigate Our Machines by Type: You Can Select All, Backhoes, Dozers, Excavators, Tractors, Wheel Loaders, and Motor Graders. Click the Link Below the Image to Browse Our Huge Selection of Salvage Machines!
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Add Your Email Address to Our Contact List
I Just Bought a Hydraulic Pump from You. Do I Need to do Anything Before Installing it?
I Bought a Hydraulic Pump from You. Do I Need to do Anything Before Installing it?
In this Section, We are Going to Make Sure that You Avoid one of the Most Common Mistakes Customers Make AFTER Purchasing a Hydraulic Pump, Drive Motor, Swing Motor, Valve Bank, or Shuttle Transmission BEFORE they Install it. *Please Note This Article IS NOT a How-To Flush Your Hydraulic System or Perform ANY Preventative Maintenance on Your Specific Type, Make, or Model of Equipment. ALWAYS Refer to the Machine Manufacturer for the Proper Instructions.*
Table of Contents
Why Did My Old Pump/Motor Fail?
This is a question that is best asked before ordering a new pump because there are a variety of factors that can cause a hydraulic pump or motor to fail. Among them are what I call the 4 main “pump killers:”
Mechanical Failure to the Input Shaft: This is generally caused by an extreme load on the pump due to a problem with the pressure relief components designed to prevent overloading, or slack between the shaft and coupling causing shaft fretting.
Cavitation: Simply put, the pump is starved of oil, causing a myriad of problems.
Over Pressurization: Again, when pressure relief components fail or are adjusted higher than what the pump is designed to handle, gradual or catastrophic failure is imminent.
System Contamination: Your hydraulic system has dozens of moving parts, and even more than hydraulic oil flows through. Over time, any of these components can wear away or corrode, leaving small particles of rubber, plastic, rust, dirt and grime, and metal shavings. If this “trash” is not flushed out, it WILL cause damage to your system, including your new pump.
You really need to determine or have a mechanic determine the exact cause of your pump failure and check the pressure relief valves, pump coupler(s), etc… to make sure that any external issue that caused your old pump to fail is addressed, so it doesn’t cause the same or worse damage to your new pump
Do I Really Need to Flush the System?
Absolutely! I will make this short and sweet. If you do not flush your hydraulic system, the contaminated oil WILL flow through your new pump. That contamination WILL cause damage. Our manufacturers and we WILL be able to tell that your system was not properly flushed beforehand, and we WILL NOT be liable for any damage to that pump, or your machine. Please don’t take the risk. Flush, or have your system flushed before you install one of our pumps or motors.
How do I Flush My Hydraulic System?
This one is simple. Please refer to the information available from the manufacturer of your machine and pump. We never want to give you inaccurate information that could cause harm to you or your property. We service our own machines according to manufacturer specs and recommend you do the same.
I Did Everything Right but the New Pump Isn't Working. What Now?
In this unfortunate instance, we need you to call us before you do anything else once it becomes apparent that your replacement pump is not working properly. Any unauthorized inspection of or any attempt to modify or repair the pump WILL void the parts warranty. While issues in the manufacturing of our pumps are few and far between, when a problem arises, it becomes our #1 priority, and we will resolve it as quickly as possible.
All About Casting Numbers
All About Casting Numbers
Decoding The Numbers on Your Parts
This Section Will Cover Casting and Molding Numbers Found Directly on Your Parts and How they are Not Only Helpful,
but Sometimes Required when Searching for
Tractor and Heavy Equipment Parts.
Table of Contents
What is a Casting Number Exactly?
Many tractor and heavy machinery parts are cast; meaning material such as plastic, steel, iron, or aluminum is poured into a mold before it hardens. Every part made with the same mold comes out identical to the one before and after it. Thankfully, manufacturers used numbers and letters in their molds so each one bears the same “code.” These are most commonly found on axle, transmission, or rear end housings, lift top covers, engine blocks, fuel tanks, and other non-moving parts.
Why are Casting Numbers so Important?
In almost all cases, when we are trying to verify that the part we offer will fit your machine the number on the part itself will tell us if we have a match. That is not the case 100% of the time, and we have found most of the exceptions the hard way.
Most cast parts are heavy and have multiple dimensions to match: bolt spacing, diameter, length, thickness, height, etc… I have literally set two water pumps side-by-side and turned them every possible way I could for hours, and still couldn’t detect the difference between the two with my eyes, measuring tape, or micrometer. If only there had been a casting number on the housing, I could have avoided a frustrating learning experience, and I’m trying to help you avoid it, too.
Where Should I Look for the Casting Number?
The short answer is “directly on the part.” That is always true, but it’s not always jumping off the machine at you. Here are some common parts with casting numbers, and where to look for them:
Axle Housings: For most wheeled machines you will find the numbers from the rear of the part. Some casting numbers are on the underside of the axle.
Engine Block: Most commonly on the right-hand side of the engine. (If you would like a quick refresher, see “My Right or Your Left? How to Properly Orient Your Machine”). Make sure you are looking at the block directly because many engine components have their own numbers.
Cylinder Head: This depends on the manufacturer. Some can be found on the side of the head. Some are found on top of the head, underneath the valve cover.
Front Axle Support (Bolster): Almost always on the underside of the bolster. You either have to scoot yourself, your camera, or someone else under the machine to see it. It will also be covered in grease and grime.
Now that you know where to find some common casting numbers, I’ll tell you WHAT numbers to look for
Casting Number Format by Manufacturer:
Ford/New Holland:
Uses numbers and letters. Ex: D4NN7006AB
Old Ford tractors (Pre 1950) Use Shorter Codes or Numbers. Ex. EAE8006B or 310665
New Holland Uses Mainly Numbers. Ex. 80067568
All Have a Similar Format, but Rarely Matches the Part Number.
Case/I.H.:
Mostly Numbers With One Letter. Ex: 81107C91, or A184267
Matches Part Numbers Less than Half the Time
Deere:
Almost all Start With a Letter Followed by Six Numbers. Ex: T151503
Matches the Part Number Almost all of the Time.
Komatsu:
Mostly Numbers Divided by Two Dashes. Ex: 20Y-30-66250
Matches Part Numbers Less than Half the Time
Caterpillar:
Seven Numbers Separated by a Dash. Ex: 117-2305, or Five Numbers with a Letter in the Second Position. Ex: 6E2426
Matches the Part Number Most of the Time.
Massey Ferguson:
Usually 8-9 Numbers Only. Ex: 37111500
Matches Part Number About Half the Time
Notable Exceptions:
There are some important things to note. Just because a casting number on a part housing matches your casting number, it does not guarantee that the entire assembly will fit. Transmissions are a good example. The casting number tells us that the housing or casing will bolt up to your machine, but the internal gears and shafts may not be compatible with yours. If the input shaft diameter, length, and/or spline count do not match, the transmission will not work.
Another notable exception is a Ford 3-cylinder tractor hydraulic pump used on thousands of 3000, 2000, and 4000 series tractors, and 172ci engines. EVERY pump assembly has the same front housing with the same casting number: C5NN905, but there is a fitting on the rear of the pump that comes in two different styles and diameters. In this case, the casting number is not the only piece of the puzzle we need. Only the style and diameter of the rear fitting can tell us if the pump is a match.
My Part Arrived Damaged! Now What?!
My Part Arrived Damaged! Now What?!
In a perfect world, all of our orders would be delivered on time, in immaculate condition, but we all know that damage is inevitable. In these cases, we do our best to make a disappointing situation as painless as we possibly can.
Table of Contents
My Part is Damaged. What’s My First Step?
That largely depends on where the carrier is, but we will cover as many scenarios as we think you may encounter.
IF THE CARRIER IS THERE, your first step is to kindly but firmly ask them to wait while you inspect the package or pallet. Delivery drivers are on a tight schedule, but they are required to allow you to check for damage. We HIGHLY recommend you, or someone you trust open ANY package that has damage to the outside of the box, crate, or whatever was used as an outer layer. If there is damage to the part, your second step is CALL US IMMEDIATELY. Take pictures with a digital camera or cell phone
IF THE CARRIER HAS GONE, your first step is the same as the second step if the carrier was still there: CALL US IMMEDIATELY. At this point, we cannot have you send the damaged part back with the carrier, but that may not be the preferred method. Take pictures of the packaging and the damaged part. DO NOT disassemble the part any further. DO NOT try to attempt a “simple repair” like a bent fitting or crimped fuel line. If you modify the part IN ANY WAY, even if it arrived damaged, anything you do could void the warranty and be stuck with it as-is.
You are Closed and the Driver is Here. What now?
NEVER let the delivery driver leave until you point out the damage. Some ground carriers will insist on taking the damaged package with them, rather than leave it with you. Let them take it, and contact us the next business day. If they insist that they cannot take it back on that truck, there may be a good reason for it, but MAKE SURE the driver notes the damage in their handheld scanner or however they have to do it, and be sure to note their name.
NEVER sign a bill of lading for a freight shipment. Your signature will act as proof that you inspected the delivery and there is nothing wrong with it. If the freight driver will not leave the shipment (and they shouldn’t) without a signature, let them load it back onto the truck and take it to the terminal. Contact us as soon as we are open for further instructions.
NEVER throw away the damaged part OR the packaging that it came in unless we tell you otherwise. We may need you to send us pictures so we or our vendor can file a claim after we get your order taken care of.
How Much Longer do I Have to Wait Now?
If your part was damaged in transit, we want to get you a replacement as quickly and securely as possible. If there is stock to replace the part, we may be able to get another shipped out the same day. We usually have the part shipped via regular ground service, but in some cases, we are able to escalate the issue and have the part arrive faster than the original did. These decisions are made on a case-by-case basis. If the part you ordered is not available through the same channels as the original, we will work with another vendor or salvage partner to replace the part.
This Can’t Possibly Cost Me Anything, Right?
The short answer is no, AS LONG AS you have not attempted to repair the part in any way. As mentioned above, anything you do to a part that has arrived damaged is not the fault of the carrier and may cause them to be let off the hook for the original damage as well.
If the damage is in no way your fault, we will send a replacement out at absolutely no additional cost to you. (THIS DOES NOT APPLY if you ordered the wrong part. In those cases, you will have to pay the cost of the replacement part, shipping to you, return shipping for the wrong part ordered, and a restocking fee in most cases). Please keep any pictures of the damage handy, and DO NOT throw away the part or packaging until we tell you to do so, or give you different instructions.
What If I Order a Part I Don’t Need Right Now?
A lot of customers will order parts for their machines with the intention of installing them when they have time days, weeks, or sometimes months after they order them. There are many reasons for this, but you should always inspect your parts ASAP, even if you won’t be able to install them right away.
We recommend that any moving parts, such as pumps and gears, be installed before the warranty period has expired in case there is any issue with the function that external damage cannot indicate. You should still ALWAYS inspect the part even if it has no moving components. For example, the warehouse where about half of our new aftermarket radiators ship requires any and all damage to be reported within 7 days of receiving it.
We will do everything we are authorized to do to replace your damaged parts if you do not inspect them within the warranty period, but we CAN NOT guarantee the same outcome as if you had inspected the part upon arrival. These will be handled on a case-by-case basis.
Wow. This FAAQ Is Making Me Nervous. How Often Does this Happen?
The VAST majority of our shipments arrive at our customers’ locations with no issue. As with anything in life, if you do something enough times, there will be a problem once or twice. Thankfully, only a small percentage of the thousands of shipments we send become an issue. We just want you to have the knowledge in your arsenal to handle them if any arise.
Why do You Need My Machine Serial Number and Where the Heck is it?
Why do You Need My Machine Serial Number,
and Where the Heck is it?
In this Section, We Will Tell You All About Your Machine Serial Number, Where it is, and Why We Need it Most Times You Order Tractor and Heavy Equipment Parts.
Table of Contents
I Know My Model Number. Why do You Need the Machine Serial Number?
First of all, if you know your machine make and model number, we are already off to a great start. You may be wondering how someone would own a machine and not know that. Keep in mind that a lot of tractors, backhoes, dozers, and excavators we offer pats for are often times decades old. Some of them have been passed down, inherited, sold several times, or the owner just plain forgot once the decals and paint faded that information away. But you have your model number, and you’re still being asked for your machine serial number when you call. The reason is simple. The make and model number are all you need to find a lot of parts for your machine, but for a lot of parts, we need more specific information. Before we get into exactly what that number tells us, I’ll answer the the first question I get 90% of the time I ask for a customer’s serial number:
Where Do I Find My Machine Serial Number?
I would love to have a one-sized-fits-all answer for you, but I don’t. The one element that is most common is what the serial number is printed on: a “business card sized” thin metal tag, usually attached to the machine with rivets or an adhesive. That is usually WHAT you are looking for, but your question is WHERE to find it.
Thankfully, our sales staff has access to software that will usually show them exactly where you need to look. If you have a Case, Ford, International Harvester, John Deere tractor or heavy machinery manufactured before 2010, we should be able to direct you to the serial number tag location using that software. However, if this is not the case, there are a few common locations to check first.
– On the dash, or cowling around the steering wheel or gauge cluster for tractors
– On the bottom of the side of the cab nearest the boom for excavators that swivel
– On the lift-arms or lift-frame for loaders, skid steers, and some backhoes
– Stamped onto the fuel or hydraulic tanks on some dozers and backhoes
Just as important for you to know where to start looking is where NOT to look:
– On the side of the engine, transmission, or rear-end housing of any machine
– On a pump or hydraulic motor (injection pump, hydraulic pump, skid steer motor, carburetor, etc…)
– On the final drive housing for excavators, trackhoes, dozers, etc….
There are likely more than a couple “business-card shaped” tags on your machine, and we don’t want you to make a trip out to it just to find out that you have only found your engine, transmission, or axle serial number, or your hydraulic motor or injection pump tag, and NOT your machine serial number. Those numbers are VERY important when identifying those specific components, but they aren’t the numbers you need right now.
Guess Which Tags are Machine Serial Numbers. Hover Over the Tag for the Answer.
I've Found the Correct Number. Why do You Need it?
As I’ve stated before, your make and model number does not tell us everything we need to know to find you the correct parts. Again, there is a pretty simple reason. Manufacturers don’t want to roll out a new model number every time they make a change to a machine. For example, Ford 555A and B series backhoes have high stall OR low stall torque converters depending on when the machine was made. Ford doesn’t stamp the production date anywhere on the machine, but the machine serial number can tell us when your machine rolled off the line. It is imperative that we know that because if you replace a low-stall torque converter with a high-stall, you will at best ruin your transmission. In this case, there are also markings on the actual housing, but in over seven years of personally selling dozens of those torque converters, I only came across a couple of them that still had legible markings. Our sales staff will make sure they have all of the information they need to keep you from ordering the wrong part, and our website will alert you in the product description as well.
There is NO Serial Number Tag Anywhere! What Now?
The problem with small and thin metal tags on tractors and heavy machinery is that they don’t always stay put. A lot of times, if they do stay put, they’re painted over, gouged by tree limbs, or worn away by time or a previous owner using a little too much elbow grease trying to clean it up with a wire brush. Thankfully, most manufacturers stamp the serial number on the main frame of backhoes, dozers, and especially excavators. If you strike out there, we will do our absolute best to find you the correct part by taking measurements, analyzing photos you email or text to us, and putting every available resource to use. In rare cases, when we both don’t know the machine serial number, we’ll arrange with our customer ahead of time to split the shipping if it doesn’t fit, but we don’t like to pay for extra shipping just as much as you do, so we will do everything we can to match the part before the sale.
